Here are some Do's & Don'ts for cleaning your Vistalites and for that matter any acrylic surface.
First off let's talk about the cleaning products themselves. I will move on to some good towels and wipes, abrasive and non-abrasive polishes and a few techniques I use.
So what are we going to use?
Acrylic is a very sensitive compound when it comes to chemicals. We want to use cleaning products that are not going to damage it in any way i.e. scratching, discoloring, hazing or even disolving away our precious instrument.
Here are some cleaning products that I use on a regular basis.
RCI Acrylic Drum Cleaner
This is one of the better choices. I have gone through a few cans over the years and have been very happy with the results from this product. The price varies and I have seen it from $14.99 to $19.99 depending on where you shop. All in all, this is a highly recommended cleaning product by yours truly.
PLEXUS
Plexus is also a good product and is roughly in the same price range (maybe a few bucks less but not a big deal). I like this product as well although not my preferred, it does a good job. I do like the fact that they have a tiny 0.42 oz. pocket size for quick touch-ups on the go.
Novus #1
A simple and readily available product. It does the job but does not encapsulate the dirt and dust well so it kind of pushes it around a bit. Novus is going to cost you about $5 to $7 for an 8 oz. bottle.
Microfiber Towel
Of course you want to use the right towel too. A microfiber towel will serve you well and will last a long long time with care. I have also used the blue shop towels with good results as they have a low abrasive factor.
Don't be a miser. Spend the money to do the job right. It's not a lot and you will be happier in the long run. You don't want to spend again for replacements now do you.
So what are we going to use?
Acrylic is a very sensitive compound when it comes to chemicals. We want to use cleaning products that are not going to damage it in any way i.e. scratching, discoloring, hazing or even disolving away our precious instrument.
Here are some cleaning products that I use on a regular basis.
RCI Acrylic Drum Cleaner
This is one of the better choices. I have gone through a few cans over the years and have been very happy with the results from this product. The price varies and I have seen it from $14.99 to $19.99 depending on where you shop. All in all, this is a highly recommended cleaning product by yours truly.
PLEXUS
Plexus is also a good product and is roughly in the same price range (maybe a few bucks less but not a big deal). I like this product as well although not my preferred, it does a good job. I do like the fact that they have a tiny 0.42 oz. pocket size for quick touch-ups on the go.
Novus #1
A simple and readily available product. It does the job but does not encapsulate the dirt and dust well so it kind of pushes it around a bit. Novus is going to cost you about $5 to $7 for an 8 oz. bottle.
Microfiber Towel
Of course you want to use the right towel too. A microfiber towel will serve you well and will last a long long time with care. I have also used the blue shop towels with good results as they have a low abrasive factor.
Don't be a miser. Spend the money to do the job right. It's not a lot and you will be happier in the long run. You don't want to spend again for replacements now do you.
Let's take a look at a few polishes and techniques.
I have used several polishes over the years and have yet to find one that will remove any but the finest scratches. If you think you are going to buff out those scratches with a good polish and some elbow grease, forget it.
With that said let's take a look at some polishes.
The following products are best used on a naked shell (all hardware removed). This is something of a spring cleaning thing that you may or may not want to do depending on how grimy your acrylic may get over the past years use.
Meguiars #17
Meguiars #17 is a non-abrasive polish that will give good results but is rather messy and takes a bit of muscle. It tends to paste up on the surface and is best used on a naked shell.
Novus #1, #2 & #3
Novus #2 is labeled as a fine scratch remover and is mildly abrasive. I use this after removing a scratch or two to get the surface ready for final polishing but can be used on a regular basis to polish your acrylic too.
Novus #3 is labeled as a heavy scratch remover and is a bit more abrasive than Novus #2
Both are good products and I swear by them. FYI I keep the big jugs around the workshop as I use a lot.
With that said let's take a look at some polishes.
The following products are best used on a naked shell (all hardware removed). This is something of a spring cleaning thing that you may or may not want to do depending on how grimy your acrylic may get over the past years use.
Meguiars #17
Meguiars #17 is a non-abrasive polish that will give good results but is rather messy and takes a bit of muscle. It tends to paste up on the surface and is best used on a naked shell.
Novus #1, #2 & #3
Novus #2 is labeled as a fine scratch remover and is mildly abrasive. I use this after removing a scratch or two to get the surface ready for final polishing but can be used on a regular basis to polish your acrylic too.
Novus #3 is labeled as a heavy scratch remover and is a bit more abrasive than Novus #2
Both are good products and I swear by them. FYI I keep the big jugs around the workshop as I use a lot.
Techniques:
Of course you don't need any help with the cleaners. You just spray them on and wipe them off right. Well I suppose so but don't be stingy. You want to make sure you have all the dust and or dirt covered with the product. Wiping the dirt around your drum without any cleaner will scratch the surface. A good coating will suffice and you do not need to go overboard. always use a clean towel too. Using a dirty towel is like using sandpaper. Any little bit of debris stuck to the towel and your asking for scratches.
Minor polish and or touch-up.
Using the Novus #3 (if needed), apply a bit to the area to be worked. Work the area in a North/South - East/West fashion. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT polish in a circular motion with Novus #3 as it can create swirls in the surface.
Using a clean and separate microfiber towel, finish with Novus #2 in a circular motion. It's okay, #2 can be used in a circular motion. If you get swirls go over the area again with the #3 using the North South technique. Having a problem? Email me.
Finish with a good cleaner of your choice.
Tip:
Use a microfiber towel with a bit of cloth bundled into it to create a small polishing ball.
Now let's move on to a good naked polish.
Of course you don't need any help with the cleaners. You just spray them on and wipe them off right. Well I suppose so but don't be stingy. You want to make sure you have all the dust and or dirt covered with the product. Wiping the dirt around your drum without any cleaner will scratch the surface. A good coating will suffice and you do not need to go overboard. always use a clean towel too. Using a dirty towel is like using sandpaper. Any little bit of debris stuck to the towel and your asking for scratches.
Minor polish and or touch-up.
Using the Novus #3 (if needed), apply a bit to the area to be worked. Work the area in a North/South - East/West fashion. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT polish in a circular motion with Novus #3 as it can create swirls in the surface.
Using a clean and separate microfiber towel, finish with Novus #2 in a circular motion. It's okay, #2 can be used in a circular motion. If you get swirls go over the area again with the #3 using the North South technique. Having a problem? Email me.
Finish with a good cleaner of your choice.
Tip:
Use a microfiber towel with a bit of cloth bundled into it to create a small polishing ball.
Now let's move on to a good naked polish.
(For this technique I recommend the Novus #2)
It's important to get naked yourself. What I mean is take off any jewelry, watches, rings etc. This includes necklaces and bracelets too. You don't want that stuff damaging your acrylic or getting messed up with polish either.
Let's make sure we have a good work surface and are standing up. You do not want to do this on the floor. The kitchen table with a big beach towel on it works great.
After you remove all the hardware you are now ready to go. Placement of the drum is important. You want to set it on it's edge. You do not want to push down on the drum and crack or split it. This way you can spin the drum and get the top half done and then flip it and do the other half. Watch out for the badge. Remember it is going to still be attached.
First thing is to eyeball the areas that need extra attention. I use a grease pencil to circle them and just polish it out as I go. I like to work a section at a time flipping back and forth as I go. Using a microfiber towel with a good amount of polish on it, apply the polish to the surface of the acrylic and work it. Not a lot of pressure is needed but rather a smooth flow to move the polish around the surface. It's going to be a feel for it thing and you'll get it as you go. Keep a clean microfiber towel handy. When the polish starts to haze over, wipe it off with the clean towel. Try to avoid letting any polish dry on the surface of the acrylic. As you work, the towel will become more saturated with the polish and that's okay but avoid over-saturation. Using this technique you can work the areas that need more attention with better detail but it is rather messy. Of course, if the drum needs it, you can use Novus #3 first and then followup with the #2. Keep in mind that you do not want to get any #3 on your #2 towel. That would be going backwards now wouldn't it.
Tip:
Rest your arm across the shell edge to keep it steady.
If you have a mouse or palm sander, and I do this a lot for a quick polish, you can attach a microfiber towel to the sander. I use a big rubber band and fold the towel to fit the device. Cover the towel with a good coat of polish and keep some handy as you move about the drum. Using your free hand, apply polish to the surface as needed. Do not spend to much time in one area as you may over work the surface. Keep the pressure light and flowing.
The inside of the drum is at your discretion. You may not need to do a serious polish here as not much can really get to it. Of course you have those concert toms that are open ended and may need some work. or if you picked up some old naked shells that have been cradled together, now that's another story.
After you have completed your polishing you will want to clean the drum with your choice of cleaner. Get a good wipe down and then have at the holes. There will most likely be a good fill of polish stuck in them and a small bit of towel with some cleaner can be pulled through to remove the residue. Kind of like flossing your teeth.
It's important to get naked yourself. What I mean is take off any jewelry, watches, rings etc. This includes necklaces and bracelets too. You don't want that stuff damaging your acrylic or getting messed up with polish either.
Let's make sure we have a good work surface and are standing up. You do not want to do this on the floor. The kitchen table with a big beach towel on it works great.
After you remove all the hardware you are now ready to go. Placement of the drum is important. You want to set it on it's edge. You do not want to push down on the drum and crack or split it. This way you can spin the drum and get the top half done and then flip it and do the other half. Watch out for the badge. Remember it is going to still be attached.
First thing is to eyeball the areas that need extra attention. I use a grease pencil to circle them and just polish it out as I go. I like to work a section at a time flipping back and forth as I go. Using a microfiber towel with a good amount of polish on it, apply the polish to the surface of the acrylic and work it. Not a lot of pressure is needed but rather a smooth flow to move the polish around the surface. It's going to be a feel for it thing and you'll get it as you go. Keep a clean microfiber towel handy. When the polish starts to haze over, wipe it off with the clean towel. Try to avoid letting any polish dry on the surface of the acrylic. As you work, the towel will become more saturated with the polish and that's okay but avoid over-saturation. Using this technique you can work the areas that need more attention with better detail but it is rather messy. Of course, if the drum needs it, you can use Novus #3 first and then followup with the #2. Keep in mind that you do not want to get any #3 on your #2 towel. That would be going backwards now wouldn't it.
Tip:
Rest your arm across the shell edge to keep it steady.
If you have a mouse or palm sander, and I do this a lot for a quick polish, you can attach a microfiber towel to the sander. I use a big rubber band and fold the towel to fit the device. Cover the towel with a good coat of polish and keep some handy as you move about the drum. Using your free hand, apply polish to the surface as needed. Do not spend to much time in one area as you may over work the surface. Keep the pressure light and flowing.
The inside of the drum is at your discretion. You may not need to do a serious polish here as not much can really get to it. Of course you have those concert toms that are open ended and may need some work. or if you picked up some old naked shells that have been cradled together, now that's another story.
After you have completed your polishing you will want to clean the drum with your choice of cleaner. Get a good wipe down and then have at the holes. There will most likely be a good fill of polish stuck in them and a small bit of towel with some cleaner can be pulled through to remove the residue. Kind of like flossing your teeth.
Very Important!!
When you reattach the hardware, do be careful. Do not crank it down. You don't want to create a crack after all that work now do you. Keep in mind that some of the washers will have a bit of a curve to them. Make sure that this curve matches the curve of the drum and don't forget the mylar inserts.
These techniques have proven to work well for me over the years. I do recall a clear bass drum that came in that had scars galore from some nut with a sanding disk. Of course the drum had to be resurfaced inside and out before the final polish but she came through with a beautiful sparkle. That drum is now in the Michael Lee collection.
By the way. Now may be a good time to clean that chrome while it's off the drum.
When you reattach the hardware, do be careful. Do not crank it down. You don't want to create a crack after all that work now do you. Keep in mind that some of the washers will have a bit of a curve to them. Make sure that this curve matches the curve of the drum and don't forget the mylar inserts.
These techniques have proven to work well for me over the years. I do recall a clear bass drum that came in that had scars galore from some nut with a sanding disk. Of course the drum had to be resurfaced inside and out before the final polish but she came through with a beautiful sparkle. That drum is now in the Michael Lee collection.
By the way. Now may be a good time to clean that chrome while it's off the drum.
Here are some products to AVOID, STAY AWAY, KEEP OFF, DO NOT USE. Did I mention KEEP OFF?
1) Amonia based cleaners like Windex, 409, etc. etc.
2) Cleansers like Ajax, Soft Scrub and other abrasive cleaners.
3) Any type of DETERGENT like laundry, dish and the like (It will dull the surface). Mild dish washing liquid is okay as long as there is NO detergent in it.
4) Alcohol and other moisture absorbing products.
5) Solvents and other harsh chemicals like paint thinner, gasoline and kerosene, to name a few.
6) Most household cleaning products are bad news for acrylic. If it smells nasty or hurts your eyes, it's most likely nasty for acrylic.
7) Abrasive towels i.e. paper kitchen towels, bath towels, old cotton shirts, etc.
Any questions? You are welcome to email me at KenV@vistalitedrums.com
1) Amonia based cleaners like Windex, 409, etc. etc.
2) Cleansers like Ajax, Soft Scrub and other abrasive cleaners.
3) Any type of DETERGENT like laundry, dish and the like (It will dull the surface). Mild dish washing liquid is okay as long as there is NO detergent in it.
4) Alcohol and other moisture absorbing products.
5) Solvents and other harsh chemicals like paint thinner, gasoline and kerosene, to name a few.
6) Most household cleaning products are bad news for acrylic. If it smells nasty or hurts your eyes, it's most likely nasty for acrylic.
7) Abrasive towels i.e. paper kitchen towels, bath towels, old cotton shirts, etc.
Any questions? You are welcome to email me at KenV@vistalitedrums.com